# Floris — Turnbull & Asser 71/72

> 71/72 is a 2016 woody-aromatic EDP, a collaboration between Floris, the historic British house at 89 Jermyn Street, and the Jermyn Street shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser, named for the address of T&A's fl

## Essence
71/72 is a 2016 woody-aromatic EDP, a collaboration between Floris, the historic British house at 89 Jermyn Street, and the Jermyn Street shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser, named for the address of T&A's flagship at 71/72 Jermyn Street. Composed by Floris's in-house perfumer Penny Ellis, it is an astringent, properly English cologne-style opening that dries down to an incense-and-oud woody-amber base, a structure several reviewers note is closer to a restrained, anglicized Middle Eastern attar than to the steam-pressed-cotton shirt accord buyers might expect from the tie-in.
## Scent Profile
The notes run bergamot, mandarin, and lavender on top; juniper, orris, and jasmine at the heart; and agarwood, amberwood, sandalwood, and incense in the base. The opening is a fizz of citrus, bergamot and juicy mandarin deliberately avoiding lemon, lifted by a good dash of juniper berries to evoke long, cool gin and tonics, with lavender providing a classic aromatic, near-fougere backbone.
The heart, as the Silver Fox essay describes, blends a sensitive and glowing duo of jasmine and orris, injecting soft sunlight and dust notes falling on polished wooden furniture, with the orris reading pale and powdery rather than buttery.
The transition leads to the base everyone agrees is the point: a dry, smooth oud used to add incense warmth, sandalwood, and a frankincense thread that raises gentle ghosts of worn wooden pews, set against an amberwood for a glossy dry-amber finish. This is not loud oud; the agarwood reads ashy, gravelly, and lightly animalic to admirers and very faint to detractors. Notably, several reviewers report it does not deliver the literal hot-pressed-shirt or starch accord the branding implies, and that mismatch drives much of the divided reaction.
## Performance
Sentiment is unanimous on one point: performance is sedate but long-lasting. The fragrance is reserved and close to the skin, with one reviewer warning you have to get very close to the wearer to catch it, yet wearers report all-day longevity. The profile is low-projection and high-persistence, a quiet skin scent that endures, even described as a fragrance for working in close proximity to others. Apply generously if you want any sillage.
## Wearing Context
This is positioned as a mature, tailored, office-and-occasion scent, described by one wearer as one for suits and occasions rather than casual wear, though others happily wear it casually. It reads as a gentleman's scent, mature but not stuffy, polished but comfortable, expensive but not flashy. Its discreet projection makes it ideal for close-quarters professional settings where a louder oud would offend, and the same quietness is its weakness for anyone wanting presence. Seasonally it splits between a warm-weather read of the citrus-juniper top and a cool-weather read of the incense-woody base, making it a versatile transitional scent that leans toward autumn and cooler weather.
## Comparisons & DNA
The most authoritative DNA placement, from The Scented Devil's Varanis Ridari, situates it between Guerlain Homme L'Eau Boisee and the medicinal woody-ambery Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne, with Amouage Epic Man cited for its sour-incense-and-citrus Middle Eastern character while 71/72 is far more toned down. Ridari argues its incense and wood accords are of the highest cut compared to those pricier references, while it is usually found much cheaper. The Silver Fox connects the starched-white-shirt conceit to Penhaligon's Sartorial. Within Floris, reviewers tie its base to the house's Honey Oud and Leather Oud, while a minority compare the clean citrus top to a more refined Acqua di Gio.
## Reception
Reception is positive but polarized along a single fault line: expectation. Those who take it as a signature cologne in a dry English-incense style regard it highly, calling it an unsung star and a timeless gentleman's scent, with critic-level praise from The Scented Devil and a glowing Silver Fox essay describing a quiet, beautifully balanced sense of hushed luxury. Detractors, chiefly those expecting the literal shirt accord or wanting more projection, find it non-committal, stale, or too quiet and dull. Many flag the faint, close-to-skin nature as the main disappointment. The net consensus is a connoisseur's quiet woody-incense made with high-quality materials, under the radar and divisive on performance.
## Versions & Reformulation
71/72 began in spring 2015 as a small hand-poured batch commissioned by Turnbull & Asser for the shop's most loyal customers. The original 2016 release was strictly limited to 200 bottles of 100ml, each personally poured, labelled, and signed in-house by perfumer Penny Ellis. Demand led Floris to relaunch it permanently into its Private Collection from 2017 with an updated, non-hand-signed bottle. It is an EDP and is vegan per Floris. No reformulation of the juice is documented; the version story is simply the limited hand-signed origin becoming a permanent product.
## Acquisition Notes
This sits in the upper-mainstream, affordable-niche tier. Floris's own asking price is high, around $270, but it is frequently found much cheaper at discounters, and multiple reviewers stress buying it on discount rather than at full retail. The standard size is 100 ml EDP, with samples and decants readily available. Authentic channels are Floris London, Turnbull & Asser's own stores, and reputable discounters. Counterfeiting is not a significant concern for this relatively low-profile release.
## Notable Facts & Lore
- The name is literal: 71/72 is the street address of Turnbull & Asser's 1885-founded Jermyn Street flagship, and the scent is meant to evoke the emotion of a first visit.
- Turnbull & Asser holds a long James Bond association, having supplied Sean Connery's Bond dress shirts and introduced the turnback cocktail cuff.
- Floris made a short film about the creation, with Edward Bodenham speaking of raw materials sparking many memories and stories.
- Years earlier, Turnbull & Asser had a house fragrance made by Penhaligon's, a notable piece of prior art.
- The collaboration pairs two historic Jermyn Street houses, with Floris dating to 1730, around a shared idea of hushed luxury.