Kerosene — Black Vines
Essence
Black Vines is Kerosene’s black-licorice landmark: star anise and licorice root made dense, cool and almost mentholated, then grounded by fir, balsam, vanilla, tonka and incense. It is not trying to make licorice polite. It is trying to make licorice monumental.
Scent Profile
The opening is immediate and forceful. Star anise and licorice root create a black, green, medicinal candy accord with a cool edge. Ivy adds bitterness and watery green tension; fig smooths the sweetness so it does not become only confectionery. Cinnamon warms the heart, then the base expands. Vanilla and tonka give a root-beer-float creaminess, Peru balsam and Canadian fir add resin and conifer lift, and incense smolders underneath. As the licorice recedes, some wearers notice marshmallow, caramel or vanilla-bean softness, but the black-anise spine never really leaves. The fragrance is cohesive rather than dramatically evolving. It oscillates between cool licorice and warm resin, with gourmand sweetness held in check by fir, incense and spice.
Performance
Black Vines is powerful. Longevity is a strength, projection can be strong, and fabric can hold the scent long after skin wear. Restraint matters: the anise becomes cloying when oversprayed, and the cinnamon oil warning makes patch testing sensible for sensitive skin.
Wearing Context
This is a cold-weather statement scent: autumn, winter, Halloween, Christmas candy, dark rooms and dramatic moods. It is unisex but not office-safe. The best context is personal pleasure or evening wear, especially for someone who wants an unusual gourmand rather than a crowd-pleasing vanilla.
Comparisons & DNA
Hermes Brin de Reglisse, Mancera Aoud Black Candy, 1000 Flowers Reglisse Noire and Caron Eau de Reglisse map the licorice family, but Black Vines is denser and more resinous than those reference points. Its fir and balsam separate it from simpler candy-anise scents. The drydown can recall L’Occitane Eau des Baux, though Black Vines stays deeper, darker and more licorice-centered.
Reception
Wearer response is enthusiastic when the anise lands: realistic licorice, excellent performance and unusual grown-up gourmand construction are the repeated praises. The opposing camp dislikes the same fact, finding it medicinal, rubbery, too sweet or simply too licorice-heavy. Tania Sanchez gave it a vivid, forbidding write-up, which suits the scent’s temperament. Value sentiment is favorable for fans, but it is not blind-buy safe.
Versions & Reformulation
Black Vines was discontinued, later brought back for a limited period, and remains availability-sensitive. No widely documented reformulation changes its profile; the main distinction is original stock versus limited-return bottles.
Acquisition Notes
When available, Black Vines sits in Kerosene’s 100 ml EDP format through the brand and specialist retailers. Limited availability can push interest to the secondary market, but authentic-channel buying is straightforward when stock exists. Sample first for both taste and skin sensitivity.
Notable Facts & Lore
- John Pegg made Black Vines from affection for black licorice candy.
- The formula carries a cinnamon-oil sensitivity warning from the brand.
- The scent helped establish Kerosene as a house willing to make divisive gourmand ideas feel serious.
- Its reputation rests on being a true licorice reference rather than a vanilla fragrance with an anise accent.
- Later limited availability increased its collector pull.