Maison Crivelli — Cuir InfraRouge
Essence
Cuir InfraRouge is a fluorescent raspberry-leather extrait: sweet-tart red fruit slamming into suede, oud, orris, cinnamon and vanilla. It modernizes the raspberry-leather lane with more polish and Crivelli-scale volume.
Scent Profile
The opening is vivid and loud: jammy raspberry, slight sourness, bergamot brightness and cinnamon wrapped immediately around heavy leather. A brief animalic edge can appear before the composition smooths out. In the heart, suede moves forward while raspberry remains persistent. Orris gives a lipstick-powder texture, osmanthus adds apricot-leather nuance and cedar structures the fruit and leather so the scent does not collapse into syrup. The drydown darkens into oud, patchouli, vanilla and leather. The red fruit eventually recedes and the woody-oud base becomes cleaner, warmer and longer-lived than the top suggests.
Performance
Strong extrait performance, with very good-to-excellent longevity and noticeable projection for several hours. It can last for days on fabric. Apply sparingly, especially in warm rooms or around people sensitive to leather and oud.
Wearing Context
Best for fall, winter, evenings, dates and nights out. The raspberry gives enough lift for shoulder-season daytime wear, but full application is risky in offices. It is genuinely unisex: fruit pulls sweet, leather and oud pull darker.
Comparisons & DNA
Tom Ford Tuscan Leather is the genre reference, but Cuir InfraRouge is brighter, smoother and more polished in the drydown. Oud Maracuja is the closest in-house sibling, replacing passionfruit-oud with raspberry-leather. Oud Stallion and Ombre Nomade describe the darker oud-leather edge.
Reception
Largely positive among leather and oud fans, with praise for balance, smoothness, performance and the raspberry-suede accord. Criticism focuses on genre fatigue: some find the raspberry-leather profile predictable or too close to Crivelli’s other loud fruit-oud releases.
Versions & Reformulation
Single 2024 extrait composition at 32 percent concentration, released first through a UK exclusive window before wider distribution. No reformulation is documented; the house markets it as vegan.
Acquisition Notes
Luxury niche extrait sold in 50 ml and 100 ml formats, with broad sample and decant access. Sampling is sensible because it is expensive, potent and potentially redundant if you already own a fruit-oud or raspberry-leather statement scent.
Notable Facts & Lore
- The inspiration is a raspberry cocktail at an electronic music festival, with leather chairs and neon light imagery.
- Jordi Fernandez also composed other Crivelli oud-linked releases, making the shared DNA intentional.
- The Selfridges sales story about raspberry cocktail and leather jacket became a small wearer anecdote.
- The formula highlights premium cinnamon, orris, osmanthus, vanilla and tonka materials.