Bortnikoff — Oud Loukoum
Essence
Oud Loukoum is a discontinued 2020 Bortnikoff extrait that treats Turkish delight as a sweet fruity-floral veil over dense, genuine oud. It contrasts candied fruit and ylang with tobacco, balsam, and smoky animalic woods.
Scent Profile
Dried and stewed fruits, tobacco, and a strange petrol-licorice edge open the scent. Oily ylang-ylang becomes the heart material, while Indian oud, agarwood, guaiac, cedar, and Peru balsam provide a dense chalky, smoky base. The loukoum sweetness varies by wearer.
Performance
As an oud extrait, it is exceptionally long-lasting with moderate sillage. A little goes a long way.
Wearing Context
Cold weather, evenings, and special occasions suit this dense, animalic floriental. It rewards experienced oud wearers and is unsuitable for conservative close quarters.
Comparisons & DNA
Keiko Mecheri Loukhoum and Serge Lutens Rahat Loukoum are genre references, but this scent adds real oud. Areej Le Dore Indolis is a useful reference for the exotic floral-oud facet.
Reception
Reaction splits even among house followers. It is praised for high-definition materials and the oud-ylang contrast, while its animalic opening, unclear loukoum effect, and wandering structure repel others.
Versions & Reformulation
The 2020 extrait came in 9 ml and 50 ml bottles and is discontinued. A possible bottle-to-bottle variation is noted, but no formal reformulation is established.
Acquisition Notes
It is scarce on the secondary market. Trusted decants and documented specialist stock are the most sensible route. Availability is part of the appeal and the risk. Because it is discontinued, condition and provenance matter more than chasing a full bottle quickly; a decant is the clearest way to decide whether its animalic-fruity contrast is personally compelling. The composition is best understood through its full evolution on skin, rather than a note list alone.
Notable Facts & Lore
- It is an explicit Turkish-delight homage.
- Dmitry Bortnikoff distills oud in Thailand.
- Its elaborate bottle-and-box presentation is prized by collectors.