CoSTUME NATIONAL — Sea Thru
Essence
Sea Thru is Celine Barel’s transparent marine fougere for Costume National: bitter citrus, saltwater, cypress, neroli, oakmoss, benzoin and ambered woods made clean, mineral and wearable.
Scent Profile
The opening is crisp citrus: bitter orange, lemon and grapefruit, bright and pithy rather than sweet. It immediately sets a clean, airy frame. The heart carries the saltwater idea. The sea accord is mineral, iodized and breezy, with cypress adding green aromatic wood and neroli adding a soapy white-floral citrus glow. The base is mossy, ambered and softly resinous. Oakmoss gives green earth, benzoin adds warmth, and the woody-amber effect keeps the scent from evaporating like a simple citrus aquatic.
Performance
Early evidence suggests better-than-average aquatic performance: moderate projection and decent persistence from the mossy amber base. It can be sprayed generously in warm weather without becoming heavy.
Wearing Context
Sea Thru is for spring, summer, beach air, casual offices and warm smart-casual days. It reads clean and unisex, slightly masculine to some noses. It is less convincing as a cold-weather or formal evening fragrance.
Comparisons & DNA
Bvlgari Aqva Pour Homme is the clearest reference for salty citrus-marine freshness. Sea Thru feels more niche-polished, with a stronger iodized saltwater accord and moss-amber support. Montblanc Legend Spirit and Goldfield & Banks Bohemian Lime help triangulate the fresh-citrus side.
Reception
Early wearers praise the realistic sea note, clean citrus and refined base. Critics find it familiar and close to cheaper blue-aquatic references. The polarization is mild: the question is originality and price, not whether the scent is difficult.
Versions & Reformulation
Sea Thru launched in 2024 as a single Eau de Parfum composition in 50 ml and 100 ml sizes. No reformulation is documented.
Acquisition Notes
It is current and available through the brand, niche retailers and sample services. Sampling is still worthwhile because salty marine fragrances can feel either refreshing or too familiar depending on the wearer.
Notable Facts & Lore
- The concept is transparency: water, clarity, lightness and opalescence.
- Celine Barel composed the saltwater accord to evoke sea salt and fleur de sel.
- The formula highlights LMR naturals from Grasse.
- Barel is also known to enthusiasts for Zoologist Squid, giving Sea Thru a cleaner counterpoint to her darker marine work.