Crabtree & Evelyn — Sandalwood
Essence
Crabtree & Evelyn’s Sandalwood is the middle child in a three-generation sandalwood saga, and it carries a near-mythical reputation by association. The lineage runs from the original Extract of Mysore Sandalwood (1970, reportedly built on real Mysore santalum album), through this synthetic-era Sandalwood, to Indian Sandalwood (2014). What it is in the bottle: a clean, soapy-powdery, sandalwood-forward cologne — citrus and lavender up top over a creamy-dry sandalwood, vetiver and amber base — that reads like an excellent gentleman’s shaving soap. It is discontinued and mourned by sandalwood lovers.
Scent Profile
Sandalwood opens on a bright, refreshing trio of citrus, coriander and lavender — shy and muted rather than loud, in the words of critic Sergey Borisov, who described how it “gradually becomes the smell of sandalwood soap (if you like, shaving soap) and talcum powder for the body.”
That powdery, woody combination of soft aldehydes, clove, sandalwood and cedar is the heart of the scent, reminiscent of the famous Indian Mysore Sandal Soap. A soft floral touch of lavender carries into a warm, creamy sandalwood-vetiver center that stays soft and soapy.
The signature accord is a creamy, dry, soapy sandalwood. The composition is fairly linear and notably restrained, which sets up its central tension: balanced and refined to some, anemic to others, while over-application can tip the woods toward a sawdust-like sharpness.
Performance
This is a soft, close-wearing cologne rather than a powerhouse. Many wearers find sillage and longevity on the weaker side, better suited to warmer months, while others warn it can punch hard on the first spray — especially the woody vetiver — and last well if applied with restraint, even reading as intrusive in an office. The reconciliation is application: it is a cologne that hits firmly up close, then settles to a soft, soapy skin presence. Treat it as a soft-to-moderate performer and apply with a light hand.
Wearing Context
The soap-and-talc character makes Sandalwood read as freshly groomed rather than seductive — a clean daytime scent. Its softness ties it to warmer months, though the creamy-woody base also draws fans of cozy sandalwood in fall and winter. Billed masculine, it is understated and non-offensive enough that many find it near-unisex. It suits the office, daytime and anyone who wants the smell of an expensive sandalwood shaving soap, provided it is not over-applied.
Comparisons & DNA
The most useful comparisons are internal to the house. Against the original Extract of Mysore Sandalwood (1970), described as deeper, richer and buttery with real Mysore character, this version is the lighter, more synthetic, soapier descendant. Against Indian Sandalwood (2014), critic Mark Behnke framed the lineage memorably, likening the comparison to a dry-aged porterhouse versus the original, and explained that the synthetic-era version recreated Mysore’s slightly spicy quality using lavender, violet, amyris wood and vetiver. Beyond the house, true-Mysore touchstones like Chanel Bois des Iles describe what the originals aspired to.
Reception
Reception is colored heavily by nostalgia and by the decline of true Mysore sandalwood. Admirers call it what sandalwood is supposed to smell like, praising its refined soapy elegance, true-sandalwood character and excellent value when it was sold. The criticisms are that it can read too soft or anemic for some skins, and that it never matches the discontinued Mysore original. The biggest source of disagreement is version confusion — wearers constantly argue over which formulation they actually have, and reputations attach to the wrong bottles. Critics Sergey Borisov and Mark Behnke both treat the C&E sandalwoods seriously as studies in the perfumer’s craft under raw-material constraints.
Versions & Reformulation
At least three distinct C&E sandalwoods share the name family: Extract of Mysore Sandalwood (1970, reportedly real Mysore sandalwood, the legendary one); this synthetic-era Sandalwood (dated variously to the mid-1970s or to a 2004 reboot, a point wearers dispute); and Indian Sandalwood (2014, by perfumer Ashley Wilberding, using sustainably grown Australian Santalum album, launched at $45 for 100ml). The whole line, along with matching soaps and shave products, is discontinued. Because reputation and price differ wildly between them, buyers should confirm exactly which formulation a bottle is.
Acquisition Notes
All versions are discontinued, so acquisition is aftermarket only. The original Extract of Mysore Sandalwood now commands collector prices, with full bottles cited around $300 and up, despite once selling cheaply. The synthetic-era Sandalwood and the 2014 Indian Sandalwood are easier and cheaper to find secondhand. The real authenticity issue is not counterfeiting but mislabeling and version confusion, so confirm whether the packaging reads Extract of Mysore Sandalwood, plain Sandalwood, or Indian Sandalwood. Decants of all three circulate, which is the sensible way to compare before paying vintage prices.
Notable Facts & Lore
- The scent’s lore is tied to the global Mysore sandalwood story, as over-harvesting pushed perfumery toward synthetics and Australian-grown Santalum album.
- Critic Mark Behnke cited the original as one of his earliest lessons that raw materials make a difference.
- The elephant-on-red-packaging original attained near-mythical status among enthusiasts and shaving-soap historians.
- The brand created the synthetic Sandalwood when it could no longer source Mysore, then returned in 2014 with Indian Sandalwood using sustainable Australian sandalwood.