Shiseido — Zen Concentrated
Essence
A 2009 limited-edition, higher-concentration flanker of Shiseido’s 2007 “Zen (new)” fruity-floral - NOT the original 1964 Zen (the dark rose-incense classic) nor Zen for Men (2009). Marketed as a richer, woodier, more amber-and-vanilla “festive/holiday” edition of the 2007 fruity floral, in a flacon with gold-lined glass and gold stopper. EDP, feminine, discontinued. The key identity point for an agent: there are at least three completely different fragrances named “Zen” by Shiseido (1964 original, 2007 new, plus this 2009 concentrate and assorted Zen flankers), and they smell nothing alike - a fact wearers repeatedly complain about.
Scent Profile
An opulent, sprawling oriental floral. The opening is fruity-bright (pineapple, grapefruit, bergamot, peach) over a large white-and-blue floral heart - gardenia, jasmine, freesia, hyacinth, lotus, violet, and Shiseido’s signature “blue rose” accord (a rose-violet hybrid said to carry a lemony facet). The base is where “Concentrated” earns its name: patchouli, cedar, incense, leather, musk, amber, vanilla and a marine/“sea water” note give it a darker, woodier, more resinous undertow than the lighter 2007 version. Despite the sweet-sounding fruit-and-flower note list, a perceptive wearer insists “it’s not” simply sweet - it reads “blue,” deep and almost melancholy, “a rich floral blanket… perfect for the evening,” and holds up without turning skanky over a full day.
Performance
This is the headline strength. Aggregated wearer feedback treats projection and longevity as above average, and Now Smell This commenters remark it is notably potent - “This stuff was pretty strong. I can’t imagine a more concentrated version” and “I did not find it light either.” It outperforms the regular 2007 Zen on longevity, consistent with the “Concentrated” positioning.
Wearing Context
Evening, cool-weather, dressed-up. The brand pitched it as a holiday/festive launch (October 2009), and wearer framing aligns: a rich evening oriental floral rather than a daytime office-fresh scent. Skews feminine and somewhat formal.
Comparisons & DNA
A wearer positions it as a younger, brighter, “up-and-coming” oriental floral relative to Guerlain L’Heure Bleue (“Zen is to L’Heure Bleue what Anne Hathaway is to Meryl Streep”) - the same opulent oriental-floral family, less weighty and less melancholic. It is the concentrated sibling of Zen (new) 2007 and shares that scent’s blue-rose-and-fruit signature, differentiated by a heavier incense/amber/leather base. Entirely distinct from the revered 1964 original.
Reception
Limited, with modest but warm wearer reception; no major critic review. Now Smell This ran a 2009 launch post whose comment thread is dominated by gentle mockery of Shiseido’s serial reuse of the “Zen” name (“I guess Shiseido really likes the name Zen”; “too Baroque to be Zen”) plus puzzlement at the maximalist note list (“they didn’t leave out much”). Where wearers actually tested it, sentiment is positive on richness and performance. Overall a quietly liked, under-discussed flanker.
Versions & Reformulation
Released October 2009 as a limited-edition 50 ml EDP. Launch coverage described it as a richer edition of the 2007 Zen, with a higher-concentration profile and a gold-lined bottle treatment. It is visually distinguished from the 2007 Zen by its gold lining and stopper, and it is now discontinued. It belongs to a dense 2007-2009 Zen sub-line that also included Zen Gold, Zen Summer, and Zen for Men.
Acquisition Notes
This is a vintage or secondary-market purchase rather than a normal retail item. Condition, fill level, storage history, and top-note freshness matter more than nominal bottle size; sample where possible and verify packaging details before paying collector prices.
Notable Facts & Lore
- Shiseido does not disclose its perfumers for most of these (catalog: perfumer unknown), consistent with house tradition.
- The “blue rose” note is a recurring Shiseido conceit, described as a rose-violet marriage with a lemony nuance.
- The Zen name has been applied to at least three unrelated compositions across 1964/2007/2009, a point of persistent confusion and complaint among wearers.
- A 2009 limited-edition, higher-concentration flanker of Shiseido’s 2007 “Zen (new)” fruity-floral - NOT the original 1964 Zen (the dark rose-incense classic) nor Zen for Men (2009).
- Marketed as a richer, woodier, more amber-and-vanilla “festive/holiday” edition of the 2007 fruity floral, in a flacon with gold-lined glass and gold stopper.